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    美好值得美好來相配

    時間:2019-03-27 11:35:55  來源:意林雜志  作者:張老師

     在北京三里屯,有一家不尋常的中國面館。它被北美知名建筑雜志《AZURE》評為全球前十的最美門店設計,花費了上百萬,食材都是從原產地空運到北京,就連燒面的師傅都是從民間挖來的做了幾十年、匠人級的。這家面館只在傍晚5點半營業,每到這時,便有大量的顧客涌向這家店,在店門前排起長隊。雖然一碗面要35元,但這家店每個月要賣出23000碗以上。
      
      這家被喊作“北京逼格最高的米粉店”的面店叫隆小寶,店主叫肖志丹。在他的老家邵陽,有很多家大大小小的米粉店,大多都是祖傳經營,有些甚至有上百年的歷史。有一次,肖志丹和朋友到一家日本拉面館吃飯,發現一碗拉面竟然要50元!“太貴了,還不如老家10塊錢一碗的米粉用料足、口感好呢!”肖志丹很不理解。朋友指著拉面館美觀、優雅的裝修說:“老家米粉店的環境能和這里相提并論嗎?”肖志丹住了口,心里卻很不服氣:憑什么中國像樣的小吃只能藏在街頭巷尾,只配用亂糟糟的桌椅,不講究環境美不美,而且價格還如此低廉?最關鍵的是,這些小吃無論從工藝上還是口感上都非常棒,如此美好的東西完全值得用更美好的環境來相配!
      
      于是,2015年,肖志丹請來了國際知名設計團隊,在長沙開了第一家高顏值的米粉店,幾個月后,又開了一家分店。2016年6月,肖志丹終于把高顏值的米粉店從長沙開到了北京。
      
      這家面館只有50平方米,安靜、低調,卻足夠吸引人的眼球。竹子倒模澆筑的混凝土外立面上,兩個相映成趣的鋼盒子穿墻而出:左邊略高的一個看起來比較冷靜封閉,右邊的有腳手架一樣繁復的面孔。左側盒子,就是門店的入口。店內除了傳統的中國元素設計外,最大的特色是用以展示傳統晾面工藝的“晾面架”:空中優雅垂掛著的一束束細密的鋼絲“面條”,微微映著燈泡的暖光,有一種高雅的光潔感。坐在這樣的晾面架下,還未用餐就足夠詩意了。
      
      “既然是面店,只是好看那就是笑話,好不好吃更重要。做一碗真正的好面,每一個細節都不能怠慢。”肖志丹強調。店里用的是湖南邵陽的米粉,而稻米一定要用晚稻,而且得純米制作,吃起來才帶勁。北京三里屯店用的米粉,就是在長沙當地加工完成之后再空運過去的。湯必須要用牛筒子骨來熬,20小時不斷火地熬。再加入湖南特有的剁辣椒、生榨的菜籽油,牛肉片,經過兩小時不停地攪拌,才有了這秘制紅湯。爽滑的米粉出鍋,澆入濃稠的湯汁,再配上上好的碼子(碼子是湖南的方言,指米粉上的肉和配菜等)……每一碗面都精工細作,每一碗面都真材實料,每一碗面都那么大。
      
      裝面的碗、筷子也是換了很多次之后才定下來的。筷子是方形的竹筷,由整片竹子制成,夾粉更方便,瓷碗由之前的低碗口換成高碗口,避免吃粉時湯汁濺出。而米黃色的紙巾是沒有添加劑的天然紙漿制成。
      
      除了正宗的邵陽米粉,肖志丹也想著法兒地加入更多的傳統小吃。比如外酥脆內松軟的四方油條、甜而不膩的糖油粑粑……
      
      花百萬開一家小小的米粉店,有人說不過是個噱頭。但肖志丹說,我想做好每一件小事,所以從食材到門店,通通完美對待。我想要將幾十年的米粉制作與烹飪手藝傳承下去,想要民間美食匠人忙碌了一輩子的手藝,能得到更多人的認可,能挺直腰桿走出世界。因為美好總值得美好來相配。

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